Bohemian Switzerland: Sandstone Cliffs and Forest Trails

The name is slightly misleading — Bohemian Switzerland is not particularly Swiss, and it is not a mountain range. What it is, however, is one of the most visually striking landscapes in Central Europe: a plateau of sandstone cut through by deep gorges, covered in pine forest, and punctuated by rock formations that look like they belong in a different continent entirely.

What the Park Actually Looks Like

The national park, established in 2000, covers around 79 square kilometers in the northwest corner of the Czech Republic, near the German border. The landscape was formed over millions of years as water carved through the sandstone plateau, creating the dramatic cliffs, arches, and gorges that define the park today.

The most famous single feature is Pravcicka brana — the largest natural sandstone arch in Europe, with a span of 26.5 meters. It was closed to foot traffic in 1982 to prevent erosion, but can be viewed from below and from a viewpoint on the adjacent cliff. The arch is genuinely impressive in person, particularly in morning light when the stone takes on a warm orange color.

The Main Trails

The park has an excellent network of marked trails, and the signage is reliable. Most visitors base themselves in Hrensko, a small village at the park entrance on the Elbe River, and use it as a starting point for day hikes.

The Kamenice Gorge

The Kamenice River gorge is one of the park's most accessible highlights. The trail follows the river through two narrow gorges — the Edmundova soutěska (Edmund's Gorge) and the Divoka soutěska (Wild Gorge) — where the walls rise steeply on both sides and the path occasionally requires short boat crossings. The boats are flat-bottomed and propelled by poles; the journey takes about 20 minutes each way and costs a small fee. The gorge is at its best in autumn when the foliage turns.

The Pravcicka Brana Trail

The trail to Pravcicka brana from Hrensko is approximately 4 kilometers each way, with a moderate ascent. The path climbs through forest before emerging onto the plateau near the arch. The Falcon's Nest restaurant, built into the rock beside the arch in the 19th century, is still operating and offers a reasonable lunch stop with views over the surrounding landscape.

Allow around 3-4 hours for the round trip from Hrensko, more if you want to explore the plateau trails beyond the arch.

Longer Routes

For those with more time, the park connects to the Saxon Switzerland National Park across the German border. The trail network is continuous, and crossing into Germany requires only a valid ID. The Bastei rock formation on the German side — a series of sandstone pillars above the Elbe — is one of the most photographed landscapes in Germany and is easily reachable on foot from the Czech park.

Getting There

Hrensko is approximately 130 kilometers north of Prague. By train, the most convenient route goes via Decin, from where a local bus or taxi covers the remaining 20 kilometers to Hrensko. The journey takes around two hours total. By car, the drive from Prague takes about 90 minutes via the D8 motorway.

There is no accommodation in Hrensko itself beyond a few guesthouses, but Decin — a larger town 20 kilometers away — has more options and is a reasonable base for exploring the park over a weekend.

When to Visit

The park is open year-round, but the boat trips through the gorges typically operate from April to October. Summer weekends bring significant crowds to the main trails; arriving early in the morning makes a noticeable difference. Autumn is the best season for hiking — the foliage is spectacular, the light is excellent for photography, and the crowds are smaller than in summer.

Winter visits are possible and have their own appeal — the frozen gorges and snow-covered rock formations are striking — but some facilities close and the boat trips do not operate.