A Weekend in Prague Without the Tourist Traps

Prague is one of the most photographed cities in Europe, and for good reason. The problem is that most visitors end up seeing the same ten things, surrounded by the same crowds, eating at the same overpriced restaurants near Old Town Square. A weekend here can be genuinely different if you know where to look.

Day One: The Castle District and Mala Strana

Start early — before 9am if you can manage it. Prague Castle is technically open from 6am, and the grounds are free to enter. Walking up through the castle district in the early morning, when the tour groups have not yet arrived, is one of the better experiences the city offers. The views over the red rooftops and the Vltava are clearest in the morning light.

The castle complex itself is large enough to occupy most of a morning. St. Vitus Cathedral is the obvious centerpiece, but the Old Royal Palace and the Golden Lane — a row of tiny houses built into the castle walls — are worth the entrance fee. Avoid the overpriced cafes inside the complex; there are much better options a short walk away in Mala Strana.

Mala Strana in the Afternoon

Mala Strana (the Lesser Town) sits at the foot of the castle hill and has a quieter character than the Old Town across the river. The streets here are narrower, the architecture is Baroque rather than Gothic, and the pace is noticeably slower. Kampa Island, accessible from Charles Bridge, offers a rare patch of green in the city center and some of the best views of the bridge itself.

Charles Bridge is unavoidable, but the experience depends entirely on timing. At midday in summer it is almost impassable. At 7am it is nearly empty. If you can only cross it once, do it early in the morning or after 8pm.

Where to Eat in Mala Strana

The restaurant scene in Mala Strana has improved significantly in recent years. Look for places on the side streets rather than the main tourist routes. Czech cuisine at its best is hearty and unpretentious: svickova (beef in cream sauce with bread dumplings), svecova (roast pork with sauerkraut), and goulash that bears no resemblance to the tourist versions served near the Old Town.

For a more contemporary option, the area around Ujezd Street has several good mid-range restaurants that serve both Czech and international food without the tourist markup.

Day Two: Vinohrady and Zizkov

The second day is best spent in the neighborhoods that most visitors never reach. Vinohrady and Zizkov, both east of the city center, give a much more accurate picture of what Prague actually looks like for the people who live there.

Vinohrady is a residential district of Art Nouveau apartment buildings, independent cafes, and small parks. Namesti Miru, the central square, is anchored by a neo-Gothic church and surrounded by the kind of everyday urban life that tourist areas rarely show. The Saturday farmers market here is one of the best in the city.

Zizkov: The Neighborhood with Character

Zizkov has a reputation as Prague's most unconventional district, and it earns it. The Zizkov Television Tower — a brutalist structure that either fascinates or appalls, depending on your taste — offers the best panoramic views of the city from its observation deck. The giant crawling baby sculptures attached to the tower's exterior are a local landmark.

The Olsany Cemeteries, a short walk from the tower, are unexpectedly beautiful — a vast, tree-filled space that has been in use since the 17th century. It is one of those places that feels completely removed from the tourist city, even though it is only two metro stops from the center.

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